Thursday, December 9

Fun with bureaucracy, part the first

All expats have stories about bureaucracy in Italy, right? And an expat-living-in-Italy blog wouldn't be complete without one, right? Well, no need to worry any longer. Requisite Italian bureaucracy story, part the first, below.

"Si, buongiorno, vorrei cambiare l'intestazione delle bollette dell'internet," I say brightly. I have just mumbled this sentence to myself a few times to work out all the kinks (do you see all those double L's? Not so simple to pronounce, you know, especially in conjunction with the R of 'internet').

The fact that I get the whole thing out succesfully puts me in a good mood and I smile into the phone, despite the fact that, really, I am meant to be annoyed. All I'm trying to do is change the name on our internet bill from my ex-flatmate's to mine, and make it so that we get the bill by mail rather than having it be automatically deducted from her bank account. Okay, so, maybe it's a little complicated, but we filled out a form and faxed it in.

Last June.

Now it is mid-October (or was, when this all took place).

"Un attimo," says the other guy. I am clutching the paper with my information on it in one hand and pressing the receiver to my ear with the other, as if that will help me understand the guy. Half of my brain is thinking 'please don't let him have a weird accent, like from Puglia or something'. The other half is reciting my codice fiscale to itself.

Italian bureaucracy, I am so ready for you.

"Si, let me put you through to the commercial department," says the man on the other end. A crappy, tinny-sounding version of Vivaldi starts up. I sigh and put the paper with my codice fiscale on it back on the table, flexing my fingers. I roll my eyes across the room at the secretary, who is playing solitaire on the computer. Sometimes we are very productive, mid-morning on a Thursday. And sometimes not. She smiles encouragingly.

"Pronto, Michele speaking, come posso aiutarLa?"

I spring back up to the ready, and repeat my spiel. It is getting better with practice. Excellent.

"Ah, si?" says Michele, not sounding particularly interested, "why do you want to do that?"

The explanation is tricky, and I am hesitant to give it, because the more I talk, the more likely they are to figure out that I am a foreigner. This gave us problems with ENEL (the electricity people). But whatever. I do the best I can ("well, then my flatmate went off to spend a year somewhere else on a job placement and I decided to stay in Reggio even though I was really supposed to go back to America so what I really want is for us to have some electricity/internet/gas/water/etc. in the apartment, and...").

"You should send a fax," comments Michele absently.

"Yes, I know. We have," I tell him. "However, if you look at the bills for September and October, you'll notice they've still been taken from [flatmate's name]'s bank account." I give him the account number and the code thingy from the bottom of the bill, impressing myself with my ability to say numbers. (I can count! Yay! Uh.... anyway.)

"Hm. Let me put you through to customer service," he says, apparently having had enough of my reading numbers to him. I kind of vaguely feel like customer service is where I was before, but whatever. I check my email with Vivaldi jingling along in the background.

"Pronto, this is Antonella, how can I help you?"

I am getting so good at this that I don't even take my eyes off my email while I give her the spiel.

"Oh, you should talk to the commercial department for that," she says. "Let me put you through."

I frown at my email. Wasn't I just talking to Michele in the...?

"Hello, this is Francesco in the commercial department, what can I do for you? ... Yes, let me put you through to accounts."

"Wait, but I-"

I go through three or four more departments, interspersed with recommendations to send a fax, before some kind soul finally takes pity on me and emails me a document to send the fax again.

I painstakingly fill it out.

They need a photocopy of my passport, which I forget to bring to school for the ensuing week, until one weekend we come back from a trip to Paris and it happens to still be in my purse. Happy coincidence.

I politely ask our secretary to send the fax for me, as I do not know how to operate the fax machine.

"Still fixing that thing with Tiscali, huh?" she comments.

Indeed.

Also, the fax machine doesn't work. The people in the office across the hall (who are sometimes friendly and helpful and let us use their fax machine and/or steal their wireless connection) are not there.

Three weeks later, there is another happy coincidence and I remember about sending the fax during one of the rare moments when the machine is working.

I feel very productive and happy. Surely from now on, our internet will work swimmingly (not true) and the bills will come to our house (I have yet to see one) and then we will pay them at the post office (in theory) and the world will be a happy place.

"Ciao, Cri!" says my ex-flatmate one day when she calls.

"Ciao!" I say, "how's life?"

We chat for a few moments.

"Hey, by the way, do you know why they're still getting the internet out from my bank account?"

What?

No.

I explain that I sent the fax (again) and spent a whole morning on the phone with the people from Tiscali, but apparently it has not resolved the problem. Which means that I get to spend another morning on the phone with the people from Tiscali tomorrow.

Yay.

On the bright side, I have my codice fiscale totally memorized now.

Wednesday, December 8

Sometimes

Sometimes, your boss is all "oh, so, there's this translation of some dialogue that you should do, if you have time. It's a good opportunity."

Sometimes, you say yes. (Uh, actually, if you're me, you almost always say yes. This is how you end up with lots of crap to do in your life.)

Sometimes, you translate it and unthinkingly send it off, pleased to have done a good job.

Sometimes, it turns out that you were translating what would become the subtitles of a documentary about a [local charity medical place] owned by some very important people, for whose company (not the medical place) you also do a lot of teaching.

Sometimes, the next thing you know, you and your boss are all skyping with the documentary producer in the middle of the night to work out the last little dialogue issues and the secretary of the very important person knows you by name and frequently calls you at work to ask about comma placement on the documentary's DVD jacket cover.

Sometimes, you somehow end up invited to the premiere. This is traumatic, because what the hell does one wear to a premiere when the producer also owns a fashion house? All black, it seems. This requires the finding of a black skirt (because, naturally, mine is in America) and shoes to replace the Thesis Shoes of Awesomeness.

In the end, though, sometimes you totter up to the theater with your boss in heels that are rather too high. "Oh, yeah, the girl who did the translation. Brava," says a dapper looking man. Sometimes dapper looking men turn out to be the owners of major fashion houses and/or the producers of documentaries.

You shake hands and continue on, past directors of hospitals and owners of this and such, and mayors of towns. You sit and watch the thing, surrounded by what would probably be the nobility of Reggio, if there were one.

Sometimes it says your name in the credits under traduzioni. Way down past all the other weird stuff (what's a gaffer?), but still. It's probably the closest you'll ever come to fame. The lights come back on and you stand and walk out and shake hands with various people and smile and try to keep up with who's who and why they're important while a small part of your mind is also dedicated to hoping your skirt is still straight and your hair is still decent.

It's pretty weird.

Sometimes.

Saturday, December 4

Sometimes it's good to be a girl

Did you know that you can keep supermarkets in Italy open past their closing times just by being a girl? Me either, but apparently you can. Even all disheveled after a day's work (a 13 hour day, might I add). I did it just the other day. Very odd.

"... so then, the other thing we should do is create an Excel file... maybe you can get [other teacher] to do that... or otherwise maybe you can do it... or the secretary... anyway, what we should do is..."

I nod into the phone, staring into space. Usually I read and answer emails while I talk to my boss on the phone, especially during the end-of-the-day rundown. It saves time. She can expound at length on semi-relevant topics, and I can get some work done. Today, however, it is 8.52, the supermarket closes in precisely 8 minutes, I have no food in my house, and, having been at work since 7.20 this morning, I have just about lost the will to live.

"Uh-huh," I agree in a rather unenthusiastic monotone. Perhaps she takes this hint as my having lost interest in our conversation (and also the school and our students and really anything not immediately related to getting food in my belly and myself into my bed) because she finally releases me with a cheerful, "okay, thanks! Talk to you tomorrow!"

8.54.

I grab some car keys, hoping no one needs this particular car (the school owns three) tomorrow morning before I do, and hop into the elevator.

8.59.

I pull into the parking lot of the supermarket, where only three other cars are parked, and stride up to the doors, where the security man is ushering someone out.

"Siete chiusi?" I ask. All I really want out of life right now is some pasta, some salad, and my bed. This makes me brave enough to actually talk to the security guy.

"Quasi," he says. He is young and cute. I am at least young-ish, if nothing else. And apparently that's enough. "Cosa devi prendere?" he asks me. (What do you need to get?)

"Some lettuce!" I say, the first thing that springs to mind. What I really want is also some pasta (there is a delicious kind that is stuffed with gorgonzola and honey, by Giovanni Rana, whose numerous commercials on the radio have apparently brainwashed me into buying his stuff.... well, his commercials and my utter laziness and inability to cook). But whatever. If I even just got some lettuce, I could cook some pasta or rice or whatever that I have at home, slap some olive oil and cheese on it, and call it a meal. With both veggies and grains. Which is, you know, lots of the food groups. Right? Or at least two. Whatever.

"Just lettuce?" he says in what sounds suspisciously like a flirty sort of tone. Really? Flirting? Lettuce?

"Yeah, just some lettuce," I say, more because I don't really have any other response. He shouts something at the last open cashier and she rolls her eyes and says yes. He ushers me in.

"Just lettuce!" he says. I nod in agreement, and sprint off to get the lettuce. I do not dare get any pasta as well, because the cashier is a girl and probably not so susceptible to my... uh, just being female, apparently. I will just eat my rice. With some cheese mixed in. And vinegar. Because vinegar makes anything else taste like vinegar, which tastes good. Yes. (See what happens to me when I work 13 hour days begging people not to say things like "yesterday, I am going to Milano"?)

As I sprint off, I catch bits and pieces of the conversation between the guard guy and the cashier.

" .... .... .... ragazza," says he.

"You and the ragazze," says she.

There it is. Sigh.

"Ciao, bella!" he says as I leave.

"Ciao, grazie," I say. It's 9.12.

It's a funny thing, being a girl in Italy. It takes a lot of getting used to, for a foreigner. Especially one of the Anglo-Saxon variety. You get here, and suddenly people are staring at you and whistling at you and shouting "ciao, bella! complimenti!" at you as you walk down the street. People look you up and down and you're all keep your eyes to yourself, dude!

You wonder why they don't have any respect for women. Why do they seem to feel it's okay to completely treat women like objects to be stared at and commented on at will, as if we couldn't hear, or didn't care? I care. I want people to be interested in me for my intelligence, or because they think I'm a good person (whether or not I actually am is a different story, but still). Not because I'm shaped like a girl or have lighter hair than them. (Apparently medium brown = bionda, in Italy.)

But then, women are apparently allowed to retire five years earlier than men because "la mamma e sacra". They hold doors open for you and ask for permission before taking off their suit jackets in your presence. They walk you home at night. And they'll keep the supermarket open 12 minutes past closing time on a Thursday night if you tell them that you just got out of work and want some lettuce.

Weird, no?

Sunday, November 21

Fonzies

My life these days is pretty much consumed by the slave-driver people at work. Except... these days, I kind of am one of the slave drivers. Hm. Odd. In any case, while you're waiting (pfft) for me to come up with something actually interesting and worth reading (it might be a while)... here is an entry about weird crackers.

"Abbiamo comprato i fonzies!" says the girl with whom we have been wandering around Venice. She is half Venetian and half Spanish, from a town near Barcelona. She switches from Catalan to Italian to communicate this to my friend. My friend is in the Bologna Erasmus program, and this girl is a friend of one of her cohorts. A friend thrice removed. This is how you end up knowing some really random people when you live in a foreign country. Anyway. We've all met up in Venice for the Biennale of modern art, and the Festa del Redentore fireworks tonight, and we're taking a break before marching around the rest of the Arsenale.

I look over at her and smile politely. (What the hell are fonzies?)

"You've never had fonzies?!" says my fellow American, switching into English to get things straight.

Fonzies, it transpires, are like cheese curls (or whatever those orange things are called in America) except they're white, maybe a bit less greasy and nasty, and have a weird kind of taste. Probably because they lack Cheddar in Italy, so I don't know what kind of cheese they're made with...

Anyway, though, I thought that you, too, should be educated about fonzies, just in case you don't have a Spanish/Italian/Catalan/Venetian-dialect-speaking girl in your life to do it for you.

I shall even include a photograph.



The best part of that day, though? The fireworks? The Biennale? Venice? Well, Venice was pretty cool because I always love Venice, and Venice in the summertime (the Festa del Redentore is on July 18th, I believe) is even nicer. But the best thing: definitely listening to Ms. Barcelona and her friends speaking Catalan all day.

I'm an irretrievable language nerd.

Monday, November 15

Of meetings and shoes

Anything else to get ready for tomorrow?
No... just look charming and professional. See you at 8.

My boss and I are texting back and forth at 10pm the day prior to an uber-important business meeting. (Uber-important because it is with potential new clients who may possibly give us lots and lots of work, and we like potential new clients. They are good for things like earning a paycheck and not being bankrupt.)

Right, I think, charming and professional. Excellent. I'll wear a skirt and that will be that. I check one more time that all my oh-so-important documents are perfectly aligned in their plastic folder-cover-thing and then go merrily off to bed.

Not so very many hours later, I am standing in the middle of my bedroom wearing the skirt and not much else, mildly panicked. The throwing together of a charming and professional outfit... it is just a little trickier than originally anticipated.

I calmly sip my cold coffee (made by pouring room temperature water over instant coffee and a sugar cube - don't ask) while the following runs through my head: dark grey skirt would go well with white shirt... long-sleeved white shirt dirty... too cold for short sleeves... maybe with cardigan? or maybe resuscitate long sleeved one with ironing... try... shit, where's the adaptor plug? Or black pants... but are a little tight... what shirt with black pants? Or grey pants? Why are all the shirts dirty??? Why do I never do laundry?? Am stupid! And not professional! And not charming!

Okay, never mind, just try not to burn self with iron... shirt looks so-so... also has shirt-tails so needs to be tucked in but I hate tucking shirts into skirts... blahhhhh. Short sleeves after all? How is it already 7:45 and my hair is still wet?!?!

Is cold, for sure need cardigan (because I'm not organized enough to have a suit jacket that matches my favorite skirt, or to have purchased a coat or jacket for this winter yet). I straighten my short-sleeved shirt (just ironed enough so that I don't look completely like a homeless person) and pull the cardigan on over it. My boss texts me and I text back with one hand, aiming the hair dryer more or less at my head with the other.

Be there in 5. We are meeting for coffee prior to the actual meeting. Ostensibly to go over our battle plan. I don't even know why I am supposed to come with her to this meeting, as usually she takes care of the selling aspect of things herself. Perhaps she just wants moral support. Which is kind of laughable, given that I haven't even left my house yet and am already a mess.

I slip my shoes on and they slip themselves back off. Shit!!! I swear to myself (silently, because it is the arse-crack of dawn and my roommates are still sleeping, beate loro). I had forgotten that the Thesis Shoes of Awesomeness are now kind of broken and falling apart and don't really stay on so well anymore. Happily, though, I seem to be having a somewhat resourceful sort of morning, and I quickly come up with a solution: sticky stuff. Like tape. So I make some little loops of tape, affix them to both the inside of my shoes and the outside of my nylons, and voila! I am (somewhat tenuously) taped into my shoes. (So classy. Ahem.)

Seven minutes later, I am picking my way across the cobblestones of the piazza, trying not to get my heels stuck in them (this is exceedingly tricky under the best of circumstances, and slightly more so when you've had to stick your shoes on your feet with Scotch tape).

"You look nice," comments my boss vaguely, punching buttons on her blackberry like her life depends on it. We head towards the meeting.

And that is how I came to be sauntering (read: hobbling) up to my first important business meeting as an English teacher attired in a skirt (decent) and nylons (possibly weird color), a short-sleeved shirt (despite rain, fog and general chill), a black cardigan (possibly complete with blobs of lint still stuck on the back where I can't reach with the lint roller), and an aging pair of black heels Scotch-taped to my feet.

I sit across from two all-important bank people, listening and nodding and smiling officiously as appropriate (I hope), and all the while wondering whether my shoes will fall off on the way out. Leaving shoes in the client's office building and walking out in your nylons: probably not the best way to convince new clients of our professionalism and charm.

Uh, however. May I point out: we got the contract. Big old contract with lots of work. And my shoes didn't fall off until I got home. Sweeeet.

Monday, November 8

Monday evening

So. Then what you can do is go on to have a thirteen-hour day. Always a grand old time. Of which, somehow, only four and a half hours were teaching? Huh.

And then a lot of administrative stuff... and some translating... etc.

But, you know what? Somehow, I'm happy. This morning, Simon & Garfunkel's "The Boxer" came on the radio randomly, as I was pulling out of Uber-Fancy Local Fashion Thing Headquarters, and that was delightful. Then, this afternoon, a charming email from a student... and that's all it takes.

Even with 13-hour days... this life is so delightfully simple, sometimes.

Monday morning

So, yesterday, I was quietly productive. First I got up late and decided not to actually get up, and stayed in bed to watch tv shows online. (This is productive with regards to relaxing, by the way, and pretending to nurse a vague sore throat... why do I always seem to have a vague sore throat?)

Then I actually got up, and answered some emails that I really did not feel like answering, and by, like, 5pm, sat my arse down to work on the Translation of Death (uh, yes, still... but I swear I'm finishing it this week, if it kills me). Actually got a few pages done (thank Christ!), caught up with the parents on Skype (yay!), pondered the booking of tickets home for Christmas (yay!) but did not actually book them (must, though, asap), and decided to clean the apartment circa midnight.

Then remembered that had wanted to mark one of my students' final exams, and also plan a bit for the one I'm giving in class today... and then finally went to bed, all happy because my apartment was clean, the Translation of Death had made some slight progress, and my flannel sheets are delightfully warm.

Now it is Monday morning and I can't decide whether to be residually satisfied with myself (from the productivity, you know) or cranky because it is the crack of dawn (well, before it, actually) and I am sleepy. On the other hand... classes today from 8 to 3.30. Do you know what that is? That is, like, a normal school schedule. Even if I get stuck at work for a few hours after, I could still leave by a normal time! Before the 12-hour mark! And cook myself a healthy dinner! And continue the Translation of Death! Yay!

Okay, decided: I'm going to be in a good mood. Despite the mosquito (mosquitoes? really? in the second week in November? basta!!) that is sitting on the wall just above my computer, taunting me. Bastardo.